Guide to New Orleans by Stephen Terrell, a fellow Boucherconer
Heading to New Orleans to attend Bouchercon? Leave your Midwestern sensibilities at home and prepare yourself for America's most remarkable city.
New Orleans is a rich gumbo of cultures, food, sounds, music, history and life. It is the Crescent City, the City that Care Forgot, the Big Easy. It gave birth to jazz, Louis Armstrong, Dr. John and John Batiste, the Neville Brothers and the Marsalis family. It is a place where piano players are called Professor, and the greatest of all was Professor Longhair.
New Orleans is where there really was a Streetcar named Desire. It was home to Truman Capote and Tennessee Williams, who both lived for a time in the historic Monteleone Hotel. It is where Lillian Hellman was born and F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote his first novel. William Faulkner began his career writing character sketches for various New Orleans newspapers in the 1920s, and there is a small bookstore on Pirate’s Alley that bears his name and is worth a visit.
New Orleans literary heritage includes characters as diverse as Walker Percy's Moviegoer and James Lee Burke's Dave Robicheaux. It was home for Kate Chopin and her Awakening and John Kennedy Toole, whose personal story is as compelling and more tragic than his unforgettable character Ignatius Reilly in A Confederacy of Dunces. And of course, only New Orleans could have given birth to the Vampire Lestat, dark hero of the Vampire Chronicles created by Anne Rice, that forever changed the vampire legend.
I first fell under the spell of New Orleans in 1987. I've been back more than thirty times, both before and after Katrina, the seminal event from which all time in the city is marked. I’ve visited for conferences, Jazz Fest, Mardi Gras, to do research, and just enjoying the city I’ve grown to love. I've traveled there on planes, trains and automobiles, riding on the famed City of New Orleans, made famous by Steve Goodman’s song. And I made one trip on my motorcycle, following the lead of the movie Easy Rider.
I've ridden the St. Charles Streetcar, walked Bourbon Street at 4 a.m., danced with the prettiest girl in New Orleans, watched a lunar eclipse from the Moon Walk (named for a former mayor, not the earth’s satellite), thrown and caught beads, eaten crawfish, drank from to-go cups, and walked through the Quarter watching the City wake up on an early Sunday morning. With my son, I worked on houses and served food to victims in the wake of Katrina. And I've written about this city that has become such a part of my life.
To really appreciate New Orleans, you have to know something of its history. So, here's just a quick history of the city and a bit of wisdom about the City I've picked up over the years. But New Orleans is a town you explore and discover for yourself. So when you come to Bouchercon, bring your most comfortable shoes and plan to walk around.
Things To Know About New Orleans — A Bit of History
Nouvelle Orléans was founded by Jean-Baptist de LeMoyne d’Bienville in 1718 on the first high ground north of the mouth of the Mississippi. Yes, it is high ground. As the city expanded, it had to grow into areas below sea level -- hence the canals and giant pumps that keep the city (mostly) dry.
Jean-Baptist’s brother, Pierre de LeMoyne d’Iberville, founded Mobile, the first capital of the Louisiana Colony. This explains the names of two prominent streets in the French Quarter —Iberville and Bienville.
The French Quarter and the American Section (now known as the Business District) are separated by Canal Street. But ironically, although a canal was at one time planned, it was never built where Canal Street is located.
New Orleans is a Creole city, not Cajun. Creoles, on the other hand, are descendants of the original French and Spanish settlers of Louisiana. They settled New Orleans. But as one of the continent’s major ports, New Orleans was a swirling gumbo of different cultures – French, Spanish, Caribbean, African. It was unlike any other location in what became the United States.
Cajuns, on the other hand, are the largely rural folks from the bayous, descendants of the "Le Grand Dérangement" when in 1755, French settlers were expelled by the British from Acadia (now Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edwards Island). The story of the displacement is told in Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s epic poem of star-crossed lovers, Evangeline. The term Cajun is derived from the term Acadians, the people who lived in Acadia.
Race has always been a part of New Orleans, but in different ways than any other place in the South. Slave auctions were held in the port of New Orleans. On Sundays, plantation owners would often bring their slaves to New Orleans and allow them to go to Congo Square, which was located where Louis Armstrong Park now stands, across Rampart Street from the French Quarter. That is where slaves could play music, dance and have a touch of freedom from their masters. Congo Square still has a special meaning to those in New Orleans which is borne out by repeated references to Congo Square in the music and cultural heritage of the city.
New Orleans was one of the few places in the pre-Civil War South where one would find Free Men of Color, some of them slave owners. New Orleans also had a social stratum based upon degrees of color. Quadroons (one-fourth black) and Octoroons (one-eighth black) were recognized in society. Quadroon and Octoroon Balls were staged by mothers hoping to match their daughters with white lovers.
Oh, and there's Storyville, the area just outside the French Quarter that existed as a legal red-light district for nearly twenty years at the turn of the 20th Century. It was the idea of conservative Alderman Sidney Story, who thought the morals of the city would be best served by confining the rampant prostitution and vice in New Orleans to one small area bounded by Iberville, Basin, St. Louis, and North Robertson Streets. In 1917, as New Orleans was flooded with sailors preparing for World War I, Storyville was closed by order of the U.S. Navy.
Although the life of Storyville was short and nearly all its buildings are gone, its legend lives. Haunting images of the women of Storyville are preserved through the photography of E. J. Bellocq. And its bawdy houses gave birth to the true American art form -- jazz. Names like Buddy Bolden, Jelly Roll Morton, King Oliver and Louis Armstrong got their start playing in Storyville.
As for Sidney Story, the moral crusader? His only lasting reward is being eternally linked to the legend of vice and sin known as Storyville.
Getting Around in New Orleans
Streets in New Orleans are generally built to follow the contours of the Mississippi River horseshoe that bends around the city, so streets do not travel in straight lines. Consequently, directions in terms of north, south, east and west are useless. Ask a local for directions, and you are likely to have them given with referring to Downtown (down river, generally toward the French Quarter); Uptown (generally toward the Garden District, Tulane University and the Audubon Zoo); Riverside (toward the river) or Lakeside (toward Lake Pontchartrain).
While I’ve traveled to New Orleans for more than three decades, I still generally rely on taxis, Uber or Lyft, streetcars, or best of all, walking.
Keep in mind that all street names change at Canal Street. Here's a list, with the street name in the Quarter listed first:
North Rampart / South Rampart
Burgundy / University Place
Dauphine / Baronne
Bourbon / Carondelet
Royal / St. Charles
Chartres / Camp
Decatur / Magazine
North Peters / Tchoupitoulas
Five Things NOT to Do in New Orleans
1. It’s best to travel in small groups and to look out for one another. And don’t drink so much that you lose your
awareness of your surroundings – something that is easy to do in the French Quarter.
2. Don't go into deserted areas along the backside of the French Quarter or elsewhere.
3. Don't flash money. Keep your wallet in a front pocket and don't carry a dangling purse. Pick pockets abound.
4. Don't walk in the cemeteries (Cities of the Dead) by yourself or in a small un-escorted group. They can be
dangerous places. Instead, take a guided tour.
5. And whatever you do, when some seven-year-old boy comes up to you and says, "Bet you $10 I can tell you
where you got your shoes?" Don't make the bet. Sure as hell you do, he's gonna tell you, and then some big guy
will step up and say, "Pay him.” (The answer: "You got your shoes . . . on your feet.")
What to Do When in New Orleans.
Wander Jackson Square, particularly in the morning as the city comes to life. The street artists set up all around the iron fence of Jackson Square. The square is anchored by St. Louis Cathedral at one end, and the centerpiece is the namesake Statute of Andrew Jackson in the center of the park. Next to the Cathedral is the building called The Cabildo. That is where the Louisiana Purchase was signed. It’s worth a visit if you’re interested in history.
Start your day with beignets and cafe au' lait at the Cafe du Monde. There are other places that serve beignets, so check them out and compare. Nom! Nom! Nom! Order more.
In the afternoon, wander along Royal Street. Nose around in the art galleries and old shops. Listen to the street bands that set up there for the afternoon.
Take a ride on the St. Charles Streetcar. It's a great way to see and be a part of the city. Get off the streetcar and stroll through the Garden District. There are maps available. It is filled with magnificent historical homes.
Check out the World War II Museum. Few know that New Orleans native Henry Jackson Higgins designed the Higgins boats -- those WW II boats that delivered troops from ships to invade beaches, not only in Normandy, but also in Italy and throughout the Pacific. This gave rise to New Orleans’ fabulous World War II Museum, which is far more than you might expect. A really wonderful museum. You should make time for this.
Falkner Book House. Since you’re in New Orleans for a mystery conference, you should check out this cozy book store in Pirate’s Alley. Or if you’re in the Garden District, stop by the Garden District Book Shop. And if you’re into vinyl, check out Peaches Record Store in the old Woolworth’s building on Magazine Street.
Stroll the Moon Walk along the Mississippi (not named for the lunar body, but for Moon Landreau, long time mayor of New Orleans). On the Moon Walk, you will find the Audubon Aquarium and the Natchez Steamboat which will transport you down river around Algiers Point.
Take a Ghost Tour. They are campy, but lots of fun, particularly if you have the right guide.
Visit a voodoo shop. It might be a little creepy, but it’s a fascinating experience, as long as you’re not scared off by chicken feet and gris gris.
Visit the Fauberg Marigny District. This trendy little area is just outside the French Quarter. It's full of little bistros, bars and shops, but without the tee shirt shops and staggering drunks in the Quarter.
Cities of the Dead ¬‐ Above-ground cemeteries are part of the New Orleans mystique. St. Louis Cemeteries #1 is home to Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau. But don't go alone. They can be dangerous places. Take the tours which have security.
Where To Drink In New Orleans
Whether you’re looking for a sazerac, a hurricane, a hand grenade or a Big Ass Beer, there are hundreds of great places to imbibe in New Orleans. Check out the internet for lists of some of New Orleans finest watering holes.
Drink a Hurricane at Pat O'Brien's, or maybe two – one in the raucous piano bar and one in the outdoor patio. But be careful. Hurricanes taste like fruit punch & kick like a mule. Note: At the piano bar, you will have to pay extra to have the pianos play "When the Saints Go Marching In,” but just a standard tip will get the pianos to them play the New Orleans classic "They All Axed for You".
Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop is the oldest bar on Bourbon Street, a few blocks away from the heavy trafficked areas. I'm not sure anything has been done to Lafitte's in 200 years except add electricity for the dim lighting.
Carousel Bar in the historic Monteleone Hotel on Royal Street. It's a revolving bar. Its sometimes difficult to find a seat, but it is worth the experience.
Old Absinth House. Built in 1798, you can still taste the green fairy itself in this Bourbon Street establishment.
JAX Brewery. Anyone who visits the Quarter will see the sign on Decatur Street for JAX Brewery. Unfortunately, that Jax Brewery location hasn't brewed beer since the mid-1970s. But there are several local craft beers to choose from.
Music – the Rhythm and Soul of New Orleans
New Orleans is music. It surrounds you everywhere you go. Don’t limit yourself to Bourbon Street or the French Quarter. Some of the best music is found outside the Quarter.
Check out the Lagniappe Section of the Thursday edition of the New Orleans Times Picayune. It contains a list of all the music places and who is playing.
Also, give a listen to WWOZ, the “Guardians of the Groove.” This local 90.7 FM radio station exclusively plays traditional local New Orleans music along with interviews of local musicians. It is also available on line on www.wwoz.org. Its broadcasts include lists of who is playing where in town. Check it out before you travel to New Orleans or while you’re there.
Where And What to Eat
Once when a visitor said he was staying in town for three days, a New Orleans resident said “Well, that’s about eighteen meals.” Food in New Orleans is like no place else. From mom and pop stands to century-old five star restaurants.
There are hundreds of great places to eat in New Orleans -- maybe thousands. And as one wag put it, New Orleans restaurants have to be good because "they're competing with your momma." Check the many lists available on the internet of great New Orleans places to eat. Everyone has their own favorites, from po boys to James Beard award winners. Here are some of my recommendations.
Breakfast and Lunch
Cafe DuMond. Beignets & cafe au lait, and often long lines. There's a "To Go" window, if you prefer. Just get your order then walk a few steps up to the Moon Walk, grab a bench, and watch the barges go by on the Mississippi.
Court of the Two Sisters. Ideal for Jazz Brunch. Located on Royal Street, you walk through a carriageway to get to the reception desk. The buffet is a good way to try a variety of New Orleans dishes. Best part is the atmosphere. Order a mimosa, sit under the grape vines and enjoy the music and life.
Muffulettas. A muffuletta is a HUGE sandwich of Italian cold cuts & cheeses, topped with mounds of olive salad, served on fresh round Italian bread brushed with olive oil. They were originated at Central Grocery on Decatur, but there are many other places that serve these sandwiches. Plan on sharing.
Po Boys are a New Orleans staple available everywhere. They are sandwiches of all types served on crusty baguettes. Order it "dressed" (lettuce, tomatoes and mayonnaise). My favorite: Acme Oyster House Shrimp and Oyster Po Boy, dressed.
Acme Oyster Bar is a great place for oysters on the half shell and shrimp & oyster po boys. Located just off Bourbon Street, Acme draws a lot of tourists, but locals too. But there are numerous other oyster shacks with great food but smaller crowds, including Felix’s, located directly across the street from Acme.
Lucky Dogs — For more than 50 years, these little carts shaped like hot dogs have made their way onto New Orleans streets in early evening and stay until nearly dawn, feeding the late night / early morning cravings of New Orleans partiers.
Dinner
Commander's Palace — An ageless classic, winner of six James Beard Awards whose former executive chefs include Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse. You need reservations and jackets for dinner (but not brunch).
Patois. A personal favorite. It’s located in a converted house in a hidden away uptown residential area. One of the five best meals I have ever eaten, and the duck confit salad is my favorite salad/appetizer EVER.
Classic New Orleans Restaurants — Don't forget about the classic of New Orleans, upscale restaurants dating back a century or more: Antoine's (established in 1840, it’s the oldest restaurant in city); Arnaud's, Galatoire's, Brennan's, Mr. B's, Dooky Chase’s – they will all leave you with experiences found only in New Orleans.
Bayona — Located in a renovated 200-year-old creole cottage on Dauphine Street in a less-heavily traveled part of the French Quarter, this is award-winning owner-chef Suzanne Spicer's gift to the world. Business casual - no jackets or ties required. Oh, and no cell phones in the dining room. That's a good thing.
Muriel's — I enjoy this place so much I set a scene in my first novel in the upstairs dining area. It's my traditional stop on my last night in New Orleans. On Chartres Street in Jackson Square, just a few steps from St. Louis Cathedral. Make sure to see the ghost table and make a trip upstairs where the decor that look like an 19th Century bordello.
Pascale's Manale — Known for one thing: barbeque shrimp. Huge head-on shrimp cooked in spicy butter sauce, served with a bib and a baguette for dipping in the butter. Located in Garden District just off St. Charles.
But New Orleans keeps adding great restaurants of every type each year. Check out online lists for some of the latest and greatest.
Speaking New Orleans
New Orleans language has it's on special sound and rhythm. There's a bit of French, a touch of the south, and a lot that is just New Orleans. And if you run into someone from the Irish Channel area, you may hear something that sounds more like the Bronx than the deep south.
A few terms to help you understand
“Where yat”: How are you. People speaking like this may be referred to as "Yats." Not to be confused with "Who Dat," the cheer for the beloved New Orleans Saints
“Laissez les bons temps rouler.” Let the good times roll (popular expression)
Snowball: Shaved ice ball with syrup. (Often called snow cones in other parts of the country.)
Cher: Common term of affection. "Where yat, cher?"
Gallery: The balcony walkway
Banquette: Sidewalk
Gris Gris (gree gree): A voodoo good luck charm.
Lagniappe (lan' yap): A little extra. (Think getting 13 donuts when you order a dozen)
Shotgun shack: Common New Orleans style long narrow house with a central hallway. You can shoot a shotgun through the front door, and it will go out the back door without hitting anything in between.
Neutral ground: the area between the traveled lanes of traffic, often where you'll find streetcar tracks.